Kochi
The experience of living in Fort Kochi, Kerala for over two months crushed my pre-conceived notion and perception of India; from food, language, culture, customs and landscape. Upon arrival at Cochin International Airport, I found myself surrounded by lush greenery and ground still dewy from the rains, transporting me into another world altogether. Kerala is a land of palm trees, heavy summer monsoons, a beautiful coastline and some of the friendliest people. Be prepared to trade in your lassi, kulfi, daal and roti for a healthy serving of coconut rice, prawn curries, grilled mahi mahi and appams. Forget about Hindi and your typical Bollywood movies, try and pick up the local language, Malayalam, and check out the cinemas for popular local films of the same language. If you do visit in the midst of monsoon season (starting in June) and find yourself caught in one of the torrential downpours - embrace it - it's all part of Kerala's beauty!
Living in Fort Kochi was a humbling experience, where I could take the time to engage with the local culture and learn more about South India, which was so key to my understanding of this vastly diverse country. Here are a few recommendations for your stay in Fort Kochi, and a possible side-trip to the beautiful beaches of Varkala and lush Marari.
TO DO:
Alleppey Backwaters Tour
You can't travel to Kerala without experiencing the backwaters on a traditional boat. This activity is best done anytime other than monsoon season (for obvious reasons). Most tours can be booked through your hotel (recommended for overnight tours), but if you have a flexible schedule, some of the best deals can be had by simply showing up to the harbour and reserving in person.
Mattancherry/Jew Town
Spend an afternoon walking around Mattancherry, an area with a local feel and some of the most friendly people I've ever met (every single person I passed on the street had a huge smile on their face and were so excited to strike up a conversation, or even pose for a picture!). Jew Town is not to be missed for those wishing to capture a glimpse of history and the religious diversity that is prominent in Kerala.
Chinese Fishing Nets/Fort Kochi Beach/Mahatma Gandhi Beach/Fish market
Start at the Chinese fishing nets and take a stroll along the water, passing the numerous fish vendors, for one of the most stunning sunsets. Both Fort Kochi beach and Mahatma Gandhi beach are pulsating in the evenings with young families enjoying ice cream and playing soccer into the night.
SIDETRIP - VARKALA:
Eat, Stay & Play at Soul & Surf
Located about a four-hour drive south of Fort Kochi, the town of Varkala is the perfect weekend getaway. Book a stay at Soul & Surf- a relaxing retreat located atop a cliff with stunning views of the beaches below. Yoga classes are on offer, and the outdoor cafe serves many delicious treats. But, if you're looking for some real adventure, try the surf lessons and get ready to start your day at sunrise with fresh coffee and bananas, then spend the rest of the morning braving the waves!
SIDETRIP - MARARI:
Relax at Xandari Pearl
Another great weekend getaway for those looking for a quiet retreat. Xandari Pearl is home to several private villas, with private outdoor bathrooms, extremely comfortable beds and an outdoor restaurant with an amazing breakfast spread.
EAT:
Kashi Art Café
This open-air art gallery and café is the perfect spot to enjoy a morning or midday meal, or even spend the afternoon reading a book while sipping on masala chai. Try the french toast, served with a generous portion of fresh fruit, alongside an iced coffee. Or opt for one of their massive omelettes, and wash it down with a ginger-honey lemonade. This place was easily one of my favourite spots in Fort Kochi.
Tibetan Chef
Initially reluctant about this hole-in-the-wall restaurant, I was convinced and converted after stopping in when I had caught a cold during monsoon season. Any of their hearty noodle and vegetable soups will instantly fill you up, and the momos are the perfect meal accompaniment (or get them for take out as a late-night snack!)
Malabar House
This place is home of the best seafood in Fort Kochi, served in a beautiful open-air setting. Come for dinner and try the Kerala-style mahi mahi, steamed to perfection in a banana leaf with a tangy tomato sauce and served with a side of basmati (add a ginger lemonade, and you can't beat this meal).
Xandari Harbour
Another great hotel restaurant with several lunch and dinner options. Opt for the set dinner in the evening, or come in for the all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch for a ridiculously large menu of sweet and savoury Indian and Western options (this price also allows you to lounge by the pool for the day if you aren't a hotel guest). Order an iced coffee afterwards and enjoy the afternoon!
Dal Roti
If you're seeking a break from South Indian cuisine, this restaurant has all the North Indian food you've been craving in a cozy restaurant. Try the paneer kathi roll- it's one of the best I've ever had.
Fusion Bay
A great choice for a quick and delicious South Indian dinner. The prawn curry is light and the fried banana dessert is the perfect end to the meal.
STAY:
Malabar House
Xandari Harbour
Vivanta by Taj Malabar