Fès
If you were in awe of Marrakesh's pulsating vibe, then Fès will certainly capture your heart as the quieter but more intriguing city. In Fès, every tiny corner of the Medina holds a secret- whether it be a goldmine of handwoven rugs, an eclectic roof-top café or a local willing to chat, this city is one that holds on tight to traditions and will open up to only the most curious of travellers.
Old Medina of Fès: The old medina of Fès is nearly the same size of that in Marrakesh, but entirely different in atmosphere. Where Marrakesh has wide streets and hundreds of English-speaking sales people aggressively calling out for you to purchase tourist souvenirs, Fès' winding streets are much quieter and are actually used for local shopping. Explore the different areas of the Medina for homewares, clothing, leather goods, fruits and vegetables, as well as butcher shops. For the faint of heart, try to avoid the butcher shop areas, and for those looking to purchase home items, bargaining in French will always take you farther than English.
Chouara Tannery & Leather Goods Shopping: Ask any local in the old city where to find the tannery, and you will surely be directed to Chouara. After climbing several sets of winding steps, you will be able to take in an amazing view of Fès and the famous paint-pots. Often they are empty, but if you have the chance to see them during working hours, each large pot will be filled with highly-pigmented color used for dyeing leather goods. The surrounding areas of Chouara are filled with plenty of leather goods shops, and you can be guaranteed that they are all authentically-made in Fès.
Cats of Fès: Whether you like them or not, cats are everywhere in Fès - but especially around the butcher shops of the Medina.
Hand-Woven Rugs: Rug vendors can be found throughout the old city, but the real treasures are found deep within the Medina. If you are lucky enough to stumble upon one of the rug weaving houses, ask for a short tour to see how they are woven by hand, and be prepared to sit down and have dozens of colorful rugs laid out in front of you for your choosing. However, be wary- the rugs are great, but the salespeople are even better. I had zero intention of purchasing a rug on this trip, but after 20 minutes in one of these shops, I almost signed off to have a beautiful, silky rug shipped to my address in Canada!
Spices and Sweets: Markets are filled all types of spices and sticky sweets available for purchase, usually by weight. This is the best place for picking up spices to bring home to use in your own attempt at Moroccan cooking, or pure Argan oil - just make sure you ask for them to be packed for air travel.
Where to Eat, Where to Stay & What To Do:
Café Clock: You may need a map to find it, but Café Clock is one of the best places to grab lunch or dinner (or both) in the old city. Hidden in a tiny alleyway, this restaurant occupies three floors, with the top being an open-air rooftop with plenty of seating. Nearly everything on the menu is a win, but if you're feeling extra daring, you can try the camel burger. Café Clock also offers cooking classes and events every evening such as live musical performances and movie screenings under the stars.
The Ruined Garden: This unassuming restaurant is quite literally in an old garden. A little rough around the edges, but plenty of great food options with large portions. My favorite item? The date & orange blossom milk.
L'Amandier du Palais Faraj: If you've had enough of living like a local in the Medina, come to l'Amandier for dinner. This restaurant in the stunning Palais Faraj hotel boasts some of the best fine dining in Fès with a great sunset view over the old city.
Riad Laaroussa: Also a great hotel, Riad Laaroussa has the best authentic hammam experience in Fès. Arrive a bit early and enjoy some mint tea and Moroccan cookies in the garden before your hammam and massage treatment.