City Guide: Tokyo

Sushi, sake and Sailor Moon in the Land of the Rising Sun.

After a long 2.5 years of international border closures due to the global Covid-19 pandemic, Japan finally announced its re-opening in October 2022. With this news, it didn’t take long to book tickets and start planning the trip that I had been dreaming of for years.

My fascination with Tokyo, in particular, began as a young girl – it started with dressing up as my favorite Sailor Moon character (Sailor Mars) for Halloween, Hello Kitty stickers on my pencil case, learning to make sushi at home and avidly watching Kill Bill and Tokyo Drift countless times. Fast forward to more recent years and shows like Tokyo Girl, Tokyo Vice and Giri Haji only furthered my desire to visit and explore every corner of Tokyo.

Despite the slightly cooler weather, visiting Tokyo in early December, on the heels of the global pandemic, allowed for a nearly-tourist free exploration of the city which felt very authentic and liberating. Pro Tip: Plan to spend at least 4 days in the city to explore each distinct neighborhood, or ‘city’ within Tokyo.

Read on for my top recommendations to see, stay, eat and explore in this vibrant city.

TO STAY

There are a ton of great hotels to choose from, but aim to be as centrally located as possible. The newly opened Tokyo EDITION in Toranomon and the Ritz-Carlton in Roppongi both served as a comfortable base to explore each distinct area of the city, while each providing a completely different vibe.

The Tokyo EDITION Toranomon

The first EDITION property in Japan, which opened in late 2020, has shaken up the typical luxury hotel scene in the city. Keeping the clean lines and minimalistic Japanese design, the Tokyo EDITION lends a Miami-party-vibe, as a quick reminder to not take yourself, or your trip, too seriously.

Spacious bedrooms, a sleek pool area, multiple options for eats & drinks and an unbeatable Tokyo Tower view - the Tokyo EDITION is a top choice when visiting the city. Rumor has it that the second EDITION location will be opening later in 2023 in Ginza.

Sunrise from the Tokyo EDITION Toranomon

The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo

When I dreamt of staying in Tokyo, this is the image that conjured in my mind. Elegant, classic rooms towering above the city, a regal lobby lounge with live music and well-heeled Tokyo women sipping afternoon tea. Despite the rooms feeling that they could use a touch of modernity (the hotel has planned for a refresh in 2023), you cannot go wrong with the Ritz-Carlton. Ask for a room with the Shibuya and Shinjuku view to soak in the most spectacular sunset over the city and stop in at ‘The Bar’ in the lobby lounge for a cocktail from their ‘East Meets West’ menu before heading out for the evening.

TO SEE / DO / EAT / SHOP BY NEIGHBORHOOD

Tokyo is a massive city and despite having a very well-connected underground metro system, your best bet is to breakdown your itinerary by neighborhood.

TSUKIJI
If you didn’t spend your first jetlagged Tokyo morning eating fresh fish for breakfast from Tsukiji Fish Market, did you really even visit? Famed for the early morning fish auctions, where the top sushi chefs select their picks of the day, Tsukiji is equally well known for it’s various food stalls serving up fresh sushi, dumplings and other snacks. Plan to spend a morning here and make sure to stop by Tonboya to grab a torch-grilled tuna skewer.

GINZA
A short walk from Tsukiji, you can spend an entire afternoon strolling the massive, designer-boutique lined streets of this neighborhood, reminiscent of New York’s 5th Ave. Visit Ginza6 to browse a mix of unique Japanese brands and well-known European labels, stopping into the basement-level floor to sample some authentic Japanese whiskey at Jules Whiskey Collection and don’t miss the Mikimoto flagship store if you love Akoya pearl jewellery.

Make sure to stop by Sanrio World (located in the Nishiginza Department Store) for your one-stop-shop for everything Hello Kitty and the most ‘kawaii’ gifts to bring back home. Once you tire from your afternoon of retail therapy, pop into Ippudo Ramen Ginza for a piping-hot bowl of delicious ramen.

MARUNOUCHI

Take a nap and freshen up before heading out for dinner in Marunouchi. A plethora of 5-star hotels are located in this neighborhood, with a number of sleek new restaurants that are perfect for an evening out. Book a spot at the counter at Mon cher ton ton Hibiya, located in the The Peninsula, for a delicious teppanyaki dinner (avoid ordering the shrimp if you are squeamish about live seafood being cooked).

If you can score a table, try SÉZANNE, a two-Michelin starred restaurant located in the Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi. Headed by chef Daniel Calvert, the set menu blends French tradition with Japanese ingredients, creating an altogether new and inventive cuisine. The restaurant scores #2 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List.

SÉZANNE at Four Seasons Tokyo at Marunouchi

Mon cher ton ton Hibiya at the Peninsula

TORANOMON

Even if you aren’t staying at the Tokyo EDITION Toranomon, it’s worth a visit to the Jade Room & Garden Terrace for the incredible Tokyo Tower views or the Gold Bar at ground level for inventive cocktails.

ROPPONGI

Check out the current exhibits at Roppongi Museum, you never know what’s been scheduled. I was lucky to be traveling to Tokyo during the tail-end of the limited edition, 30th Anniversary Sailor Moon exhibit which displayed original art, costumes and collectibles from the past 30 years of this iconic series.

After a morning at the museum, browse Tokyo Midtown Shopping Centre at the base of the Ritz-Carlton. Grab a quick lunch from Ibuki Udon and make sure to pick up sake from Sake Shop Fukumitsuya before taking in the incredible sunset views from The Bar at the Ritz-Carlton.

Roppongi neighborhood

Sailor Moon Museum at Roppongi Museum

Ibuki Udon in Tokyo Midtown Shopping Centre

HARAJUKU

One of the most famous neighbourhoods in Tokyo - known for it’s youth culture, vibrant shops and Harajuku girl style (if you happen to be in the city on a Sunday, plan to spend your afternoon here for the best chance at spotting them). Stop by Laforet Harajuku, a sprawling multi-story shopping centre, housing many unique brands. Laforet is also home to the Sailor Moon Store - the only permanent shop in Tokyo where you can pick up authentic Sailor Moon merchandise and souvenirs!

Harajuku neighborhood

OMOTESANDO

Omotesandō neighborhood

OMOTESANDO

Bordering Harajuku is my favourite area of Tokyo - Omotesandō. With it’s large, tree-lined main boulevard filled with architecturally unique designer stores, you could spend an entire afternoon exploring this stylish neighbourhood. Make sure to venture off the main avenue to wander through the winding side-streets to discover many boutiques, restaurants and cafes, including The Matcha Tokyo - perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up matcha latte and other matcha-themed treats. Head to Sushi Masashi for dinner, a Michelin-star omakase headed by chef and owner Masashi Yamaguchi who trained at The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo and served as head chef for Sushi Wakon at the Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto and The Pensinsula Tokyo. Make sure to reserve well in advance as seating is limited to counter-seats only and there are only two seatings per evening.

SHIBUYA

A trip to Tokyo would be incomplete without a visit to the iconic Shibuya crossing. Snag a seat at Starbucks - located on the second level of the intersection - for a view from above, but ensure you experience the feeling of walking through the crossing yourself as you become engulfed in the sea of Tokyoites rushing off to their next destination.

SHINJUKU

The Tokyo you’ve always imagined? You’re probably thinking of Shinjuku. Enter through the red-lit gates for the most iconic view of the neighbourhood and wander through the tiny streets of Omoide Yokocho (Piss Alley) and Golden Gai for a feel of old-school Tokyo (which is now replete with tourists and locals-alike).

Shinjuku neighborhood